Chidwi chachikulu cha mapiri, osati ngati zinthu zopaka utoto kapena malo oyendamo, chidayamba m'zaka za zana la 19. Iyi inali nthawi yotchedwa "Golden Age of Mountaineering", pomwe mapiri sanali kutali, osati okwera kwambiri, komanso osakhala owopsa. Koma ngakhale pamenepo panali oyamba omwe anazunzidwa chifukwa chokwera mapiri. Kupatula apo, kutalika kwa kutalika kwa munthu sikunaphunzirebe bwino, zovala ndi nsapato za akatswiri sizinapangidwe, ndipo okhawo omwe adapita ku Far North ndi omwe amadziwa za zakudya zoyenera.
Ndi kufalikira kwa kukwera mapiri kwa anthu, kuyenda kwake padziko lapansi kudayamba. Zotsatira zake, kukwera mapiri ampikisano kunayamba pachiwopsezo cha moyo. Ndipo zida zaposachedwa, zida zolimba kwambiri, komanso chakudya chokwera kwambiri chasiya kuthandiza. Pansi pa mwambi wakuti "Pamwamba momwe angathere, komanso mwachangu momwe angathere", okwera ambiri adayamba kufa. Mayina a okwera mapiri otchuka omwe adatsiriza zaka zawo pabedi lanyumba amatha kuwerengedwa ndi dzanja limodzi. Amatsalira kupereka ulemu kulimba mtima kwawo ndikuwona momwe okwera mapiri amafera nthawi zambiri. Zikuwoneka ngati zosayenera kukhazikitsa njira zakupha "kwa mapiri", chifukwa chake pamwamba khumi mwa mayikowa amapezeka mosasinthasintha.
1. Everest (8848 m, nsonga yayitali kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi ya 1) ili pamwambapa polemekeza mutu wa phiri lalitali kwambiri padziko lapansi komanso kukula kwa iwo omwe akufuna kugonjetsa phirili. Massiveness imathandizanso kuti anthu azifa kwambiri. Panjira zonse zakukwera, mutha kuwona matupi a anthu osauka, omwe sanakhale ndi mwayi wotsika kuchokera ku Everest. Tsopano alipo pafupifupi 300. Matupi samasamutsidwa - ndiokwera mtengo kwambiri komanso ovuta.
Tsopano, anthu ambiri amapambana Everest patsiku munyengoyo, ndipo zidatenga zaka zoposa 30 kuti kukwera koyamba kukhale kopambana. Anthu aku Britain adayamba nkhaniyi mu 1922, ndipo adamaliza mu 1953. Mbiri yaulendowu imadziwika bwino ndipo yafotokozedwa kambiri. Chifukwa cha ntchito ya okwera khumi ndi awiri ndi 30 Sherpas, Ed Hillary ndi Sherpas Tenzing Norgay adakhala olanda oyamba a Everest pa Meyi 29.
2. Dhaulagiri I (8 167 m, 7) kwanthawi yayitali sanakope chidwi cha okwera mapiri. Phiri ili - pachimake pachimake pa mapiri khumi ndi limodzi omwe ali ndi kutalika kwa 7 mpaka 8,000 m - adakhala chinthu chowerengera komanso malo oyendera maulendo kumapeto kwa zaka za m'ma 1950. Ndi malo otsetsereka akumpoto chakum'mawa okha omwe amapezeka kwa okwera. Pambuyo poyeserera kasanu ndi kawiri kuti achite bwino, gulu lapadziko lonse lapansi lidakwaniritsidwa, wolimba kwambiri yemwe anali Kurt Dieberger waku Austria.
Dimberger anali atangotenga Broad Peak ndi Herman Buhl. Atachita chidwi ndi kalembedwe ka nzika yotchuka, Kurt adakakamiza amzake kuti achite ulendo wopita ku msonkhanowo kuchokera kumtunda kumtunda okwera mamita 7,400. Pambuyo pa kutalika kwa mamita 400 squall yolimba idawulukira mkati, ndipo gulu la olonda atatu ndi okwera anayi adabwerera. Atakambirana, adakhazikitsa msasa wachisanu ndi chimodzi pamtunda wa mamita 7,800. Kuchokera pamenepo, Dimberger, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert ndi a Sherpas adakwera pamwambowu pa Meyi 13, 1960. Dimberger, yemwe adazizira zala zake nthawi yomwe sanachite bwino, adaumiriza kuti ulendowu ukwere ku Dhaulagiri, komwe kudatenga masiku 10. Kugonjetsedwa kwa Dhaulagiri kudakhala chitsanzo cha bungwe lolondola laulendo wazomwe wazinga, pomwe luso la omwe akukwera limathandizidwa ndikukhazikitsa njira zapanthawi yake, kutumiza katundu ndi kukonza misasa.
3. Annapurna (8091 m, 10) ndiye chimake chachikulu cha phiri la Himalaya la dzina lomweli, lopangidwa ndi zikwi zisanu ndi zitatu. Phirili ndilovuta kukwera kuchokera pamalo owonera - gawo lomaliza la chitunda siligonjetsedwa m'mbali mwa phirilo, koma pansi pake, ndiye kuti, chiopsezo chothothoka kapena kugundidwa ndi chiwombankhanga ndi chachikulu kwambiri. Mu 2104, Annapurna adapha miyoyo ya anthu 39 nthawi imodzi. Zonse pamodzi, malinga ndi ziwerengero, wokwera aliyense wachitatu amawonongeka pamapiri a phirili.
Oyamba kugonjetsa Annapurna mu 1950 anali a Maurice Herzog ndi a Louis Lachenal, omwe adakhala gulu lowopsa laulendo waku France. Mwakutero, bungwe labwino lokha ndi lomwe lidapulumutsa miyoyo ya onse awiri. Lachenal ndi Erzog adapita kumapeto komaliza atavala nsapato zowala, ndipo Erzog adatayanso ma mittens panjira yobwerera. Kulimba mtima komanso kudzipereka kwa anzawo Gaston Rebuff ndi Lionel Terray, omwe adatsagana ndi omwe adapambana pamsonkhanowu atatsala pang'ono kufa chifukwa chotopa ndi chisanu, kuchokera kumsasa wankhondo kupita kumsasa wapansi (wokhala usiku umodzi pachipale chofewa) adapulumutsa Erzog ndi Lachenal. Panali dokotala pamsasawo yemwe adatha kudula zala zake ndi zala zake pomwepo.
4. Kanchenjunga (8586 m, 3), monga Nanga Parbat, nkhondo yachiwiri yapadziko lonse isanachitike chidwi cha okwera mapiri aku Germany. Adasanthula makoma atatu a phiri ili, ndipo katatu konse adalephera. Nkhondo itatha, Bhutan adatseka malire ake, ndipo okwerawo adatsalira ndi njira imodzi yogonjetsera Kanchenjunga - kuchokera kumwera.
Zotsatira zakufufuza kwa khoma zinali zokhumudwitsa - pakati pake panali chipale chofewa chachikulu - kotero mu 1955 aku Britain adayitanitsa ulendowu kuti ndiulendo woloza, ngakhale pakupanga ndi zida sizinafanane ndi kuzindikira.
Kanchenjunga. Chipale chofewa chikuwonekera bwino pakati
Pamphirimo, okwera phiri ndi Sherpas adachitanso chimodzimodzi ndiulendo wa 1953 Everest: kuzindikira, kuyang'ana njira yopezeka, kukwera kapena kubwerera, kutengera zotsatira. Kukonzekera kotereku kumatenga nthawi yochulukirapo, koma kumateteza mphamvu ndi thanzi la omwe akukwera, kuwapatsa mwayi wopuma kumsasa. Zotsatira zake, 25 George Bend ndi Joe Brown adatuluka kumtunda ndikuthira mtunda wokwera pamwamba. Amayenera kusinthana potenga masitepe m'chipale chofewa, kenako Brown adakwera mita 6 ndikukwera Benda pamphepete. Patatha tsiku limodzi, ali paulendo, achiwiri achigawenga: Norman Hardy ndi Tony Streeter.
Masiku ano pali njira pafupifupi khumi ndi ziwiri zomwe zaikidwa pa Kanchenjunga, koma palibe imodzi yomwe ingaganizidwe kuti ndiyosavuta komanso yodalirika, chifukwa chake kufera chikhulupiriro m'phirili kumadzazidwa pafupipafupi.
5. Chogori (8614 m, 2), monga nsonga yachiwiri yapadziko lonse lapansi, idasokonekera kuyambira koyambirira kwa zaka za zana la 20. Kwa zaka zopitilira 50, msonkhano wovuta kwambiri walepheretsa anthu omwe akufuna kukwera mapikowo kuti adzipambane. Mu 1954 okha, mamembala aulendo waku Italiya Lino Lacedelli ndi Achille Compagnoni komabe adakhala apainiya amnjira yopita kumsonkhano, womwe unkatchedwa K2.
Monga momwe anafufuzira pambuyo pake, Lacedelli ndi Compagnoni, asanamenyedwe, adachitapo kanthu, kuti afotokoze modekha, osasangalatsa ndi omwe adafufuza anzawo a Walter Bonatti komanso wonyamula katundu waku Pakistani Mahdi. Bonatti ndi Mahdi atachita khama kwambiri atabweretsa zonenepa za oksijeni kumtunda, Lacedelli ndi Compagnoni adafuula kudzera m'mbali mwa chipale chofewa kuti achoke pamiyalayi ndikupita pansi. Popanda hema, matumba ogona, mpweya, Bonatti ndi wolondera akuyembekezeka kugona usiku kumtunda. M'malo mwake, adakhala usiku wovuta kwambiri mdzenje lachisanu pamtunda (Mahdi adazizira zala zake zonse), ndipo banja lowukira m'mawa lidafika pamwamba ndikupita ngati ngwazi. Poyesa kulemekeza olandawo ngati ngwazi zadziko, zoneneza za Walter zimawoneka ngati nsanje, ndipo patadutsa zaka makumi angapo, Lacedelli adavomereza kuti anali wolakwika ndipo adayesa kupepesa. Bonatti adayankha kuti nthawi yopepesa idadutsa ...
Pambuyo pa Chogori, a Walter Bonatti adakhumudwitsidwa ndi anthu ndipo adayenda njira zovuta kwambiri ali yekha
6. Nanga Parbat (8125 m, 9) ngakhale asanagonjetse koyamba, udakhala manda kwa okwera ambiri aku Germany omwe mwamakani adakumana nawo maulendo angapo. Kufika phiri la phirilo inali ntchito yosasangalatsa kuchokera kumalo okwera mapiri, ndipo kugonjetsa kumawoneka ngati kosatheka.
Zinali zodabwitsa bwanji kwa anthu okwera mapiri pomwe mu 1953 a Hermann Buhl aku Austria adagonjetsa Nanga Parbat ali yekha mumayendedwe am'mapiri (pafupifupi owala). Nthawi yomweyo, kampu yakumtunda idakhazikitsidwa kutali kwambiri ndi msonkhanowo - pamtunda wa 6,900 m.Izi zikutanthauza kuti awiriwa omwe anali ovuta, Buhl ndi Otto Kemper, amayenera kupeza 1,200 m kuti agonjetse Nanga Parbat. Asanamenyedwe, Kempter sanamve bwino, ndipo nthawi ya 2:30 m'mawa Buhl adakwera pamwamba yekha ndi chakudya chochepa komanso katundu. Pambuyo maola 17, adakwaniritsa cholinga chake, adatenga zithunzi zingapo, adalimbitsa mphamvu yake ndi pervitin (m'zaka zimenezo anali chakumwa chovomerezeka mwalamulo), ndikubwerera. Waku Austria adagona usiku atayimirira, ndipo kale nthawi ili 17:30 adabwerera kumtunda, atamaliza chimodzi mwazinthu zodziwika bwino kwambiri m'mbiri yakukwera mapiri.
7. Manaslu (8156 m, 8) sichovuta kwenikweni kukwera. Komabe, kwa nthawi yayitali kuti agonjetse nzika zakomweko, kuthamangitsa okwera - pambuyo paulendo umodzi wotsika, womwe unapha anthu pafupifupi 20 komanso ochepa.
Maulendo angapo ku Japan adayesa kukwera phirilo. Chifukwa cha m'modzi mwa iwo, Toshio Ivanisi, limodzi ndi Sherpa Gyalzen Norbu, adakhala woyamba kugonjetsa Manaslu. Polemekeza izi, panali sitampu yapadera ku Japan.
Anthu okwera phiri anayamba kufera pa phiri lino atakwera koyamba. Kugwera ming'alu, kugwa pansi pa ziphuphu, kuzizira. Ndizofunikira kuti anthu atatu aku Ukraine adakwera phiri mumayendedwe a Alpine (opanda misasa), ndipo Pole Andrzej Bargiel sanangothamangira kwa Manlulu mu maola 14, komanso adatsika kuchokera pamwambowu. Ndipo ena okwera sanakwanitse kubwerera ndi Manaslu amoyo ...
Andrzej Bargel amawona Manaslu ngati malo otsetsereka
8. Mafuta a Gasherbrum I (8080 m, 11) sichimenyedwa kawirikawiri ndi okwera - nsanjayo siyowoneka bwino chifukwa cha nsonga zazitali. Mutha kukwera pachimake pa Gasherbrum kuchokera mbali zosiyanasiyana komanso m'njira zosiyanasiyana. Pogwira ntchito imodzi mwanjira yopita kumtunda, katswiri wothamanga waku Poland Artur Heizer adamwalira ku Gasherbrum.
Anthu aku America, omwe anali oyamba kuponda nawo msonkhanowo mu 1958, adafotokoza zakukwererako ngati "tinkakonda kudula masitepe ndikukwera m'miyala, koma apa tidayenera kuyendayenda ndi chikwama cholemera kupyola chipale chofewa". Woyamba kukwera phiri ili ndi Peter Schenning. Reinhold Messner wotchuka adakwera Gasherbrum mu kalembedwe ka Alpine ndi Peter Habeler, kenako tsiku limodzi adakwera Gasherbrum I ndi Gasherbrum II yekha.
9. Makalu (8485 m, 8) ndi mwala wa granite womwe umakwera m'malire a China ndi Nepal. Ulendo wachitatu wokha ndi womwe umakhala wopambana (ndiye kuti, kukwera pamwamba pa wopitilira mmodzi) ku Makalu. Ndipo opambanawo amatayikiranso. Mu 1997, paulendo wopambana, a Russia Igor Bugachevsky ndi Salavat Khabibullin adaphedwa. Patatha zaka zisanu ndi ziwiri, a Vladislav Terzyul aku Ukraine, omwe adagonjetsa Makalu kale, adamwalira.
Oyamba kulowa msonkhanowu anali mamembala aulendowu wokonzedwa ndi wokwera wotchuka waku France a Jean Franco mu 1955. Achifalansa adasanthula khoma lakumpoto pasadakhale ndipo mu Meyi mamembala onse agululi adagonjetsa Makalu. Franco adakwanitsa, atapanga zithunzi zonse pamwamba, kuti aponyere kamera, yomwe idatsika motsetsereka. Chisangalalo kuchokera pakupambana chinali chachikulu kwambiri kotero kuti Franco adakopa amzake kuti amugwetse chingwe, ndipo adapeza kamera yokhala ndi mafelemu amtengo wapatali. Ndizomvetsa chisoni kuti sizinthu zonse m'mapiri zomwe zimathera bwino.
Jean Franco pa Makalu
10. Matterhorn (4478 m) siimodzi mwazitali zazitali kwambiri padziko lapansi, koma kukwera phiri lamakona anayi ili kovuta kuposa ena onse asanu ndi awiri. Ngakhale gulu loyambalo, lomwe lidakwera (kutsetsereka kwa madigiri 40 pa Matterhorn limawoneka lofatsa) kupita kumsonkhano mu 1865, silinabwerere kwathunthu - anthu anayi mwa asanu ndi awiri adamwalira, kuphatikiza wowongolera Michelle Cro, yemwe adatsagana ndi wokwera woyamba Eduard Wimper kumsonkhano. Otsogolera omwe adatsalapo adanenedwa kuti amwalira, koma khothi lidamasula omwe akuwanenezawo. Onse, anthu opitilira 500 amwalira kale pa Matterhorn.
